and in the words of Paul Simon……..

Joseph’s face was black as night
And the pale yellow moon shone in his eyes
His path was marked
By the stars in the Southern Hemisphere
And he walked the length of his days
Under African skies

This is the story of how we begin to remember…………

Day 1 – Heathrow to Maun via Johannesburg

Day 1 seamlessly or should it be seemlessly blending into Day 2

So, we’re off again beginning with the ubiquitous 2h trip on good old TFL, still mustn’t complain – forever free to us ‘oldies’ and as efficient as ever. Bus to Bexleyheath Station, overground train to London Victoria and finally the District & Piccadilly London Underground lines eventually arriving at Heathrow Terminal 5 but this time, thanks to a little bit of useful advice given to us by Sophie, who we met at Victoria to pick up the last of our foreign currency, changing at Baron’s Court onto the Piccadilly line which allowed us to simply cross the platform rather than take the route march that we used to do when changing at South Kensington. Won’t forget that one then!
Check in at the airport is forever being improved, it’s now all automatic with even your frequent flyer points printed on your boarding pass. What, I hear you cry, you don’t know about Frequent Flyer points?
You must do this forthwith. Log on to Iberia Plus, register for a card and start collecting, they’re a bit like Green Shield Stamps without the stamps and book, just a loyalty card on which you amass points when you fly, and we all know what points mean. Our baggage was dropped efficiently, however, a bit of unwelcome news, as we were flying BA to Johannesburg and then Air Botswana to Maun we could not book our bags through to our final destination. That’ll be a pain then but at least will take up some of the 4h stopover at Jo’burg.
We took off, in our fairly new Airbus 380 40mins. late for the first leg of our journey, 5,635miles to be completed in 10h 45mins. towards Johannesburg, a city in South Africa which is only 1h ahead of us in time difference. We flew forever south with just a little Easterly sidestep to allow for the slight difference in longitude. I remember from my Geography lessons, 1h for every 15degrees of longitude moved; hence Johannesburg at around 12degrees Easterly is 1h ahead of the U.K. – there you are, you’ve learned something. By the way, Botswana is 1h ahead too.
Our route: across the channel, over France, crossing Tunisia including The Great Eastern Sand Sea and onwards to Niger, at a steady 540mph. Dinner was served, vegetarians first again!
Next between Niger and Chad flying over a lake before N’Djamena and Mondou towards The Central African Republic, forever Southwards whilst allowing for the rotation of the earth and that 12degrees. Past the Republic of the Congo to the West and the Democratic Republic of the Congo to the East, even further south and strange to be constantly over land and not an Ocean. Between Zambia and Angola

and somewhat annoyingly flying over our eventual desired destination Botswana before finally landing in Jo’burg.
Films watched – London Has Fallen & The Revenant both of which come recommended.
We arrived just a few minutes late in Johannesburg where everyone working at the airport whether cleaners, check in staff, security or waitresses seemed happy to laugh and joke with travellers and colleagues alike, though it’s going to take us a while to tune in to their accents and not keep saying pardon. After checking out through passport control, collecting our bags and passing through customs we made our way rather circuitously to Terminal A where we did exactly the same but in reverse, whilst collecting a few American coins left in a tray at baggage check. We then waited awhile to board plane number 2 to Maun in Botswana, our final destination.
We boarded an ATR 42 72 for the final leg of our journey, a turbo prop no less with a capacity of 48. After taking off we crossed what appeared to be endless barren wasteland finally making a steep and extremely bumpy descent to Maun airport – nothing to write home about especially as we had to wait at least an hour to pass through customs.

We met our guide Bibi in the airport concourse, introduced ourselves, there are 7 in the group, and climbed aboard our transport for the duration of our stay, an open sided lorry with enough seats for both us and our luggage.
Bibi drove us to the money exchange which was interesting, my passport was used by one of the group because the number was needed. On then to our overnight accommodation the Sedia Riverside Lodge where we met for an introduction to Botswana followed by a couple of beers and a chat.

The evening finished with a very pleasant meal chosen from a selection of typical western fayre – burgers, pizzas, salads and steaks. It was good.
Early to bed!

Day 3 – Maun to Shakawe (Okavango Pan Handle)
Botswana, previously known as Bechuanaland before independence, is a land locked country the size of France with a population of just over 2 million so there’s plenty of room and this soon became apparent. Its 3 main money earners being beef, diamonds and tourism. After breakfast we began our long drive to our overnight base for the next 3 nights, a house boat on the Okavango Pan handle, imagine the delta as the part you cook in and you can see how our location got its name. After only a few kilometres we were soon out of the built up area of Maun and into sparsely populated dry, dusty scrubland. The roads were very straight with only every now and again a bend; generally right handed as today our route would be clockwise around the delta heading to the North.

As we sped along with a trailer in tow (you must carry all luggage in a trailer and not in the vehicle in order to conform to Zambian law), the vegetation changed to areas interspersed with grassland, green trees and bushes, every now and again goats and cows crossed the road in front which forced us to slow. One thing’s for sure, I wouldn’t like to get lost here!

Housing became very infrequent except for small homestead type settlements with thatched circular dry mud walled dwellings positioned inside boundaries made of grass and reed.

We stopped only 3 or 4 times during the 300+ km journey, once when we spotted a group of vultures, ever the opportunists, feasting on a carcass and again when we had ostriches close to the road which sometimes was Tarmac surfaced and at other times simply dirt.

Sad to say but very true, many people here have nothing but the clothes they wear so for them life is extremely hard. We picked up a lad and gave him a lift up the road, how kind was that!
Eventually at around 1.30pm. we arrived at the houseboat which was a very pleasant surprise indeed, a 2 storey quite modern vessel with 10 ensuite cabins each with a balcony. Spookily, our room was number 6, the same as at our previous stop. We were given our safety briefing, unpacked and met upstairs for lunch.
The bird life here next to the sandbank was abundant, birds everywhere you looked and all very interesting, a pair of little bee eaters guarding their nest hole in the river bank, 20, 30, 40 carmine bee eaters all busy catching and killing their insect prey caught on the wing prior to swallowing it,

a reed cormorant drying its wings, hornbills whooping in the trees, pied kingfishers, egrets and others that we couldn’t clearly identify – it was so peaceful here that we took the opportunity to rest from the rather lengthy drive.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At about 4.30pm we started the engine and slipped our sandy bank mooring and set off sedately down the river always hugging the shore which brought us closeby the river bank to marvel at the variety of bird life.

After an hour we moored up and relaxed watching the sun set slowly over the opposite bank.

From then on, before, during and after dinner the main topic of conversation was midges of which there was a seemingly endless supply most of which were attracted by the lights.
We used the local fly spray ‘Doom’ so then all we had to do was remove the dead ones from our bed covers.
‘We’re all doomed’ tonight and not a Dad’s Army in sight.

Day 4 – Houseboat Stay
Boy was it hot last night when we went to bed and then rather surprisingly just as if someone had turned down the thermostat, it got quite cold at around 3am, cold enough even to climb under the covers.
We woke with the sound of the generator, a sign which signalled the return of water pressure, so showering and flushing of loos could now take place. Breakfast at 7.30am was limited but nevertheless sufficed.
After breakfast, we took the small boat back to our previous mooring before jumping on the 4×4 and after a very short while, we stopped to buy water at a ‘supermarket.’
Today would see us travelling to see the ancient rock paintings in Botswana’s one and only World Heritage Site, The Tsolido Hills, which meant retracing part of our route from yesterday to the appropriate junction which would then lead us through the bush along unmade roads to the ‘Visitor Centre’.

The journey took quite a while and apart from repeatedly waving to the local children we sat and bounced the time away. Unexpectedly, we saw a couple of elephants close to the road but they unfortunately quickly disappeared before our cameras were at the ready.
Upon arrival we were introduced to our local guide and for the next 2 extremely hot hours followed him along a path pausing to look at a wide variety of ancient white or red painted images of animals, they were extremely clear: giraffe, rhino, antelope etc. given their age.

As a little added extra information for you; one set of images rather high up were first spotted by the explorer Lauren van der Post who after a series of unfortunate mishaps: inadvertently allowing his group to kill some of the locally protected animals, himself being unfortunately bitten by a snake, having his camera stop working at a crucial time in his explorations, these things, he thought all signs that he had upset the Gods so he decided to appease them by writing a letter of apology and placing it in a crack in the rocks close by; it is supposedly still there.

After climbing a stoney path we stopped to take in the view of the 3 rocky outcrops; father, mother and child. The story goes that this small earthly family suffered an acromonious divorce after which a literal separation took place – hence their positioning; split assunder from each other.
After eating our ‘road lunch’ we paid a quick visit to the ‘museum’ and climbed back aboard our transport for what would be a long trip back. If only they had a craft shop here, they’d surely make a ‘killing’ from all the tourists who visit. As we exited the park Bibi called a little boy dressed in poor clothes over to the bus and gave him the half packet of crisps that was left over from lunch, the boy was delighted, again I thought what a very kind thing to do.

We stopped next for water and beers, water and soft drinks from the Choppers Supermarket (Botswana’s answer to Sainsburys) and the alcohol from the liquor shop a little further on where we unfortunately met the local town drunk. We would not have a chance to buy water nor any sort of liquid again for some time and in this dry land, water is everything hence the agreement between Botswana, Namibia and Angola allowing the sharing of the waters which run into the delta across these 3 countries.
Back in the motor launch and to the houseboat for a coffee but not before spotting a crocodile, mouth agape in the heat of the afternoon sun, it soon slid into the water when we came too close. After about an hour our houseboat moved away from the bank and motored downstream further into the delta. Once again the bird life was amazing and our daylight hours were finished at sunset with a croc’s snout glistening in the setting sun whilst a hippo grunted from the grassy bank behind it.

We have local knowledge now; no lights=no midges so all clear last night!

Day 5 – Houseboat Stay
As the generator heralded the time to rise from slumber and with the sound of pots and pans readying breakfast so began the start of what was to be an awesome morning with thankfully a cooling breeze.
Following a quickish breakfast we donned our life preservers walked off the back of the houseboat onto our launch and slowly motored off upstream.

Immediately a feast for the eyes, we began to notice birds of all shapes, sizes and colours, you couldn’t miss them, far too many to remember by name, but for a starter here goes: Goliath Heron, Cattle Egret, Vulture, Greater Kingfisher, Marabou Stork, African Plover, African Skimmer, Squacco Heron, to name but a few.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We spotted water monitors: large green aquatic lizards, clinging to the bank, hippos slowly diving and rising again to the surface as they kept cool and even at one stage a group of 6 hippos with an alpha male the size of a fiat 600, crocodiles basking on the riverbank their armour like scales glistening in the warm sunshine and not to be outdone of course, an otter swimming gently along away from the main current.

All this wildlife peculiarly co-existing alongside herds of cows, goats and donkeys feeding on the green pasture that lay alongside this river, remember Hippos are vegetarian and crocodiles will only take a cow when one is crossing water.
Numerous photographs, too many to count, were taken with Bibi constantly manoeuvring the boat to help us get the best and longest views possible, unsurprisingly, he was able to name every bird quickly and precisely.

As the Hippos turned to view us, as was their habit, Bibi turned the boat and keep a good speed and distance from them; he reminded us that they are sometimes inclined to ram or attempt to overturn smaller boats like ours, they are enormous animals and responsible for a great number of deaths of people, and as we noticed, can move very quickly, amazing considering their bulk. However, if we’re talking quickly, you should see a crocodile when it slides from bank to water, we did and at very close quarters – I’ve never been so close to a crocodile (it filled the viewfinder of the camera – too close). Aaaaaamazing!

Upon returning to our houseboat we had a coffee followed by brunch and a time to relax and ponder upon the wondrous sights seen today. Words do not do this place justice.

At 4.00pm the boat slowly made its way back to our original mooring and then we took the launch for a trip downstream this time with the captain at the controls. The scenery here was different with reeds taking the place of the long grass, reeds for roofing and fencing material and papyrus for roofing and matting.

The bird life was again amazing but the highlight was when a hippo reared up above the surface of the water, his way of telling us that we had gotten just a little too close.

On the way back the captain opened her up and didn’t spare the horses. A weird thing though and something I’ve never experienced before, a strange mist appeared above one stretch of land – spooky.

Day 6 – Shakawe to Livingstone
A necessary evil, a means to an end you choose the correct term to use for, and I use the term loosely, a ‘journey’ lasting the best part of the thick end of 9 hours from the Okavango to the town of Livingstone in Zambia from where I currently write this.
So today we woke at 5.15am which wasn’t difficult as little continuous sleep had been achieved due to the extreme heat.
We were all ready to go by 6.30am so said our thanks to the captain and cook and set off. We were soon off the track and on to the main road, in fact the only road, leading to the Botswana/Namibia border crossing at which we soon arrived. Formalities of leaving Botswana then entering Namibia were dealt with quicker than anticipated even though we had to complete an arrivals form to enter Namibia. As soon as we crossed over, the landscape seemed to change to a more wild type, this was further emphasised by sighting 3 Kudu eating not far from the roadside.

We drove on and came to a junction with a well tarmaced road upon which we made good time crossing the Kavango (hence – Okavango) river, this took us all along the narrow piece of North Eastern Namibia known as The Caprivi Strip, named for some reason which escapes me, after a German with a hugely long and ridiculous name. Much of the land here had been burned back purposely in order to regenerate growth. A herd of Water Buffalo and elephants were feeding as we drove along. The houses, if you can call them that were of very poor quality with many of the local people simply sitting or busying themselves nearby, children were walking to school, everyone seemed to be shouting and/or waving as we passed by and all this amidst a backdrop of  domestic and wild animals.

We had our first short comfort break; now just ask yourself this, have you even been for a wee whilst being spied upon by a large male baboon? Well Maggie now has!
Eventually we arrived at the end of the strip and to the Zambian border. Once again a form to complete, in fact, a very similar form, indeed the same form but this time for departing Namibia. Next, to Zambian border immigration to pay our 50$US each visa fee in order to enter the country. Though all this paled into insignificance compared with the documentation and fees which Bibi had to sort for the group. As we drove through the post we chatted to a guard with an AK47 slung loosely over his shoulder, he seemed quite pleasant – daren’t say anything else eh! Into Zambia then, once again very different, charcoal sellers, piles of shoes and clothes for sale by the side of the road, petrol being sold from cans by a young lad, a real hotch potch of stuff going on – wow!

The road was good, at least it started that way as we crossed the mighty Zambezi on a very modern concrete bridge but very soon less and less Tarmac was in evidence so we slalomed from side to side avoiding the worst of the potholes, some we just hit head on but luckily not quite the one that a huge juggernaut had been  caught by; it lay ‘dead’ on its side its load lay precariously hanging whilst people drove around it as if nothing had happened, oh well!
Again the edges of the undergrowth had been burned back and trees felled, some of the timber now being sold as charcoal. Activities lining the road fell into the category of organised chaos, just a jumble of buildings and ruins and stuff.
At last the road surface improved and we made much better progress eventually arriving in the town of Livingstone. We booked tomorrow’s helicopter flight and finally arrived at our hotel, The Riverside Lodge, where we were once again allocated room 6 – spooky. This hotel was a far cry from the houseboat, a/c in the very comfortable room, 2 swimming pools, a bar and restaurant, just what you’d expect.
Our meal which followed happy hour was taken beside the Zambezi. Great!

Day 7 – In Livingstone
Slowly to bed, slowly to rise.

We went for a leisurely breakfast aside the Zambesi; tranquil and calm as it flowed slowly along whilst just slightly downstream from us there crossed 9 elephants, at first wading then swimming a deeper channel before wading once again to reach the island in the middle of the river. We would be spotting these elephants later but from a completely different viewpoint – read on.
At 9.35am we jumped aboard our 4WD for the short journey to the helicopter base located beside an absolutely enormous Baobab tree where we filled in some forms whilst waiting for the 4 additional people who would join us for the ride. We had booked a 20min trip for $235US each but were informed, if a little quietly so as no one would notice, that in fact our ride today would be extended to a 30min one as this is what the other 4 tourists had booked and paid for – needless to say, we didn’t have to pay any extra!
The helicopter was started following a short safety briefing and we were invited to board carefully avoiding getting anywhere near the rotors. Maggie and I sat in the back row of 4 and on the left hand side. Seat belts safely secured and headsets on the all clear was given. The pilot introduced himself and we took off. We first flew over scrubland with little on it except for trees and bushes and a few buildings in the distance. The pilot did however point out to us whilst simultaneously steeply banking the helicopter for us to see elephants and a herd of water buffalo. As we approached the gorge our pilot warned us of the significant edge we would be crossing and how he would be dropping into the gorge quickly and that the ride would be exciting and if anyone felt ill to inform him immediately.
Suddenly I became a Vietnam vet it was Da Nang airbase and I was fighting the VC, ‘Apocalypse Now’ or what? Play ‘The Ride of the Valkyries.’
The helicopter followed the bends in the river banking at steep angles whilst it did. This was something else. We waved at rafters as the horizon sloped first to the right then to the left as we maintained a constant 50ft above the river. We had travelled from rapid 21 and in no time had soon reached rapid 26 our exit point of the ravine so it was time to climb steeply back out of the gorge to 1,500ft and head towards Victoria Falls – renamed by Livingstone from its original name Mosi-Oa-Tunya (The Smoke That Thunders) – much more appropriate I think you’ll agree.

Click below to view the movie in 3 parts:

Although being the dry season, this wonder of the world did not disappoint us. We saw it from both sides of the helicopter as the pilot flew from the Zambian side to the Zimbabwean side and back again, there was even a rainbow across the gorge. It was truly amazing to witness. Following several minutes overflying the falls we began our return trip crossing the island I had mentioned earlier and spotted the elephants mentioned previously who by now were shading themselves below the trees. We returned to the helipad to reflect upon what we had seen. Wow!
When we landed, Bibi was there to take us next to Mosi-Oa-Tunyi National Park where we followed the designated paths first past a statue of David Livingstone and then on to a number of viewpoints.

We could see deep into the gorge and imagined what this place must be like when the river was in spate. We walked across the Knife Edge footbridge and closer to the falls proper which are always better seen from the Zimbabwean side. We watched as people bungee jumped from the road/rail bridge and spotted people in the river below us swimming directly under Rainbow Falls. What an experience, aren’t we lucky?

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We eventually returned to the hotel for some well deserved R & R, boy it was hot today.
My afternoon was spent taking photos of the creatures I could find in the hotel grounds – what a selection. Whilst Maggie chilled  and read in front of the fan.

Thanks to ‘The Piranhas’…….

Zambesi, Zambesi, Zambesi, Zam,
I’m on me way,
Zambesi, Zambesi, Zambesi, Zam.

Zambesi, Zambesi, Zambesi, Zam,
He’s on his way,
Zambesi, Zambesi, Zambesi, Zam.

Zambesi, Zambesi, Zambesi, Zam,
To Africa,
Zambesi, Zambesi, Zambesi, Zam...

Day 8 – Livingstone to Serondela in Chobe NP

Today is Botswana’s Independence Day so there will be lots of Black, White and Light Blue like on the can below.

Not a particularly early start today. After breakfast and settling our bill we loaded our luggage Into the trailer and left the hotel retracing our route of 2 days ago to the junction in the road leading to the Zambesi ferry crossing to Botswana. Along the way we noticed the remnants of yet another juggernaut crash that Paul had mentioned to us yesterday. It had been carrying bottles of beer of all things and although the damaged lorry remained on its side, much of the glass had been tidied to the side of the road, I can’t imagine that any beer survived!
On the approach road to the ferry there were many large lorries lined up waiting to cross, we just drove nonchalantly by and with a bit of local knowledge and undoubtedly some cash changing hands and after getting our exit stamps at immigration the gate to the ferry slipway was opened for US. This place was crowded and chaotic, there were people everywhere, very noisy and the smell of roadside cooking filled the air, not a place I’d like to be at night nor a place where I’d like to have been without a local fixer present. I distinctly remember the man crossing to Botswana who was wearing a rather unusual and off coloured ‘cream’ pin striped 3 piece suit, when we saw him on the other side he immediately tried to jump the queue at immigration but was thankfully given short shrift even though he had 2 x 10 pula notes resting on his passport ready to hand over.
We crossed as foot passengers on a small aluminium motorboat whilst our 4WD used the car ferry. This car ferry was extremely small, only 3 or 4 vehicles max so I don’t envy the driver of the last lorry in the queue on the approach road, he’ll be waiting for weeks.
We again received an immigration stamp to enter Botswana and then drove to Kasane, a bustling town where we filled both tanks of our vehicle with diesel but rather than using the very busy main petrol station Bibi used his local knowledge and visited one at the back of town. We then popped into the local Spar to buy water and soft drinks whilst Bibi bought food to take to camp for our meals.
After a bit of a drive and upon our arrival at Chobe National Park we entered through the gate and registered our stay. We turned off the tarmac road and immediately onto a dry deep sandy track. Bibi let air out of the tyres for improved grip, selected low gear and we held on for dear life as everything bounced and slid along, even the trailer bounced of the tow ball, that’s how bumpy it was.
We passed a variety of wildlife, Elephant, Impala, Antelope, Giraffe and others that as yet we do not recognise.

After a few more twists in the road we arrived at our camp at Serondela, a true wilderness camp – 4 sleeping tents, a mess tent, 2 bucket shower cubicles and 2 long drop toilet tents.
We met the 2 boys Obi and Creature who would be accompanying us for the next week, setting up and breaking our camps and cooking for us.

We had lunch – bread rolls, cheese, beans and salad.
After ‘settling into’ our tent we went on a game drive, the wildlife was incredible: Kudu, Impala, Giraffe, Elephant and numerous bird varieties all finished off with a pride of 8 lions just a bit too far away resting by the water’s edge and then a lioness incredibly close to us by the track.

FACT: Regading 4 legged animals specifically antelope; long back legs and short front ones = a jumper, short back legs and long front ones = a runner, just thought I’d tell you.
As the day began to draw to a close the sun became a glowing orange ball descending in the sky and we returned to camp just after it, the sun, had set below the horizon.
Following dinner we sat in the dark by the light of the open fire whilst Bibi went through some safety information and told us a little more about his life. We then retired to bed. It was less hot now as we climbed into our silk liners and drifted off into a fitful sleep punctuated by animal sounds and the sound of humans speaking, snoring or popping to the loo.
The temperature dropped rapidly as the night progressed but we knew that first light would soon come.

Day 9 – Chobe NP

In the jungle the mighty jungle the lion sleeps tonight……………..

We woke to the sound of people milling around and a light breakfast being prepared. Our ‘wash stands’ were filled with a little warm water shared with a couple of insects and after tidying our night things away we drank a cup of tea and ate a slice of toast (my preferred covering being a combination of Peanut Butter and Syrup).
Apparently an Elephant had visited camp last night whilst we slept so that would explain that crunching sound of plastic bottles being walked upon.

At around 7am we boarded the 4WD and so began the first part of what was to become a superb morning’s game drive. We got up close and personal with most animals and birds and were lucky enough to get very good views of everything: Lions, Leopards, Water Buffalo, Hippopotamus, Impala, Kudu, Giraffe, Wart Hogs, Jackal and birds of all shapes and sizes, some in trees, others wading and still others hopping about on the land.

Now, about warthogs, I doubt whether you’ve ever watched them closely enough. They always appear to be busy about nothing in particular. They tend to rush everywhere together, generally in a line following a leader and with their tails pointing skyward like car aerials. Bibi reckons this is because their skin is so tight that when they close their eyes it pulls their tails up, I’m not so sure.

The trip finished at 10.15am as the day began to get hotter, thank goodness for the breeze.
FACT: A Giraffe’s life expectancy is 28 years.

Brunch was taken, scrambled egg, beans and salad, however, the flies were unrelenting – annoyingly so. “More beans Mungo?”
After lunch we were driven to the town of Kasane and on the way we saw the usual selection of wild animals plus Sable Antelope, the ones with the beautiful slightly curved and long horns. At Kisane Spar, yes you read it right, Maggie popped in to buy water for the next 6 days whilst I waited outside with her rucksack – you are not allowed in the shop wearing or even carrying a rucksack. Guess what, in the middle of the shopping centre there was a visitor, a muddy wet warthog walked very matter of factly straight between the shoppers, up through the car park and through the gathered rubbish into a tunnel under the main road, where else could that possibly happen? After loading the 4WD we drove to a quayside, passing a number of warthogs and antelope, to where we were going to take a boat trip along the Chobe River.
KK our river guide introduced himself and we were off. The river here was formed of fairly wide channels and following an historical disagreement concerning the position of the border it was decided that the depth of each would be measured and that the deeper would mark the main channel which would then become the boundary between Botswana and Namibia. This resulted in Sedudu Island, about which there had been a dispute and around which we sailed becoming Botswanan.
We saw a range of birds,

numerous Hippos both in and out of the water, Elephants both on land and swimming across the channels, Water Buffalo with cattle and their mongrel offspring, Water Monitors and Crocodiles – an amazing if somewhat slow 3 hours.

FACT: Elephants have 6 sets of teeth in their lifetime. When they lose their last set, they are unable to eat and then go to the river to starve and eventually to die.
We drove back to camp and Bibi spotted Lion tracks, he rushed us down to the water’s edge and there they were, 2 large and healthy looking lionesses sitting across the track. Beautiful photos.

What a day, all finished off with an insect free dinner and a chat with Bibi around the dinner table.

Day 10 – Serondela to Sevuti Camp

They say “Life’s a Beach,” well after the journey we’ve just had on deep sand trails I must have aged quite a bit.
Following the best sleep of the holiday we, for we read the boys, broke camp at around 6.30am so were up at first light, such a peaceful, cool and quiet time of day.
The animals and birds were awake so we took a last drive around the local trails and were lucky enough to spot a group of Banded Mongoose running around looking for breakfast, a Hippo making its way to the water and some male Kudu with their long twisted horns.
After passing through the gate it wasn’t long before we were back on the Tarmac with only 172km to go; 100km on the made road and 72km on the sand – yippee!

We passed by a number of more traditionally built houses and then things became much more remote. We, when I say we I mean Bibi, spotted our first Bateleur Eagle and then a Giant Eagle Owl sitting in the fork of a tree.

The single track now became much more interesting when we came across other vehicles, it became dusty and too narrow to pass each other easily and thankfully after a while we stopped for tea and biscuits. You knew that now we were venturing into more desolate places because of the accessories attached to the vehicles we saw, axes, spades, jacks, jerry cans, gas cylinders etc. This was going to be interesting.

The scenery changed to much shorter trees and greyer sand, this area in and around Savuti was bone dry, even the waterholes had dried up. As a result there appeared much less wildlife, there were Elephant, Giraffe, some birds etc. but not in the quantities previously seen.

Eventually we got near to our overnight camp site but getting up the hill to it would prove quite difficult. The sand was so deep and dry that the wheels could not grip, they spun and churned up clouds of dust. Bibi tried another approach, he reversed and then tried again but this time going completely off track whilst appearing to demolish a number of saplings which we could hear beneath us as our 4WD scraped over the top of them, don’t worry they quickly sprang up again behind us. This time, revs high, he managed to get to the top of the hill where we would be staying, a very sandy spot indeed even difficult to walk in.
Immediately Malcolm spotted a small Barred Owl sitting in a tree whilst I followed a cheeky hornbill to get a closer look.

Later we went for a game drive across some golden grassland and saw Ground Hornbills, Blue Wildebeest, Jackal, Sand Grouse and Tsessebe Antelope all followed by one of the best sunsets yet.

Whilst returning to camp we even saw lions resting before their night’s hunting expedition.
Tonight our camp was in a very remote location so we raced back to make sure that we had beaten the 7pm deadline.

Day 11 – Sevuti to Khwai River Camp in Moremi Game Reserve

” I think I’ll join the Foreign Legion for some light relief,” quote of the day from Paul.

Hence an early start yet again today: we are now accustomed to living under canvas and more adept at packing, as a result, a 6.15am departure!
Today was a really long one – a 10h day along seriously rutted dry, dusty roads and when I say dusty I mean talcum powder mixed with soot which gets everywhere, and when I say everywhere, I mean EVERYWHERE. My feet were permanently filthy now.
The landscape changed as the miles were covered. First, we revisited the bush and savanna seen yesterday evening, getting up close and personal to some Hyenas and then 2 wild dogs whilst also taking the opportunity to photograph Sand Grouse, Blue Wildebeest, Elephants, Warthogs etc.
FACT: The Zebra and Wildebeest stay close together on the grasslands as the Zebra eats the top shoots of the grass then the Wildebeest comes along and eats the lower shoots.

At one point we stopped and chatted to the driver of a zebra print 4WD who said that the animals near us were beginning to panic because of him, read on – he is at present following and filming one particular leopard over a period of 3 years of its life, however, all the animals that the leopard stalks now associate the car with the leopard. This now means that the leopard has real trouble stalking prey and that the leopard’s prey now panic when the 4WD is around. Bibi has written a letter to the minister to ask that this 3 year permit be reduced in length otherwise who knows how the leopard will be able to feed itself.

We continued through Chobe NP – boy it’s a big place – to its exit then cut across land through ruined forests that looked as though we were in some dystopian future, grasslands with tall golden and red grass, bush land where the bushes had green leaves, dust covered everything land with, and I use the term loosely, a village in it and finally la piece de resistance and such an unexpect d surprise – The Garden of Eden. We were now in Moremi Game Reserve. We had our ‘road lunch’ – cheese and salad. This area near the marsh and river, the only water for what seemed like miles, was teeming with life, some of it new to us like Steenbok, Water Buck, Reed Buck, Red Lechwe, Saddle Beak Stork, Lilac Breasted Roller etc. but there was also the range of animals I have mentioned before.

The Hippos were doing what Hippos do best; wallowing in mud. There were also many elephants, we even noticed a baby elephant only a few weeks old whose feet were not yet used to the hot sand and who stayed under its mother so as to walk on the cooler sand in the shade. All the animals here looked so content.

There were a number of other visitors on safari in this area and Bibi stopped to talk to the driver of each and every vehicle finishing conversations with the ubiquitous “ehhhhhhh.”
The evening for us finished around 9pm after dinner and the night was a rather noisy one with elephants trumpeting and lions roaring for most of it.

Day 12 – In Khwai River Camp
We were up at 6am and on the move by around 6.30am.
Bibi immediately started tracking some lions. We followed their prints alongside the river which was now flowing quite strongly and allowing the crocs to glide effortlessly towards their Impala breakfast downstream. I could see however that the impala were certainly aware of their presence. Just after spotting a Honey Badger Bibi unexpectedly turned the lorry around and started to drive off track through the grassland until we came upon 2 lions resting in the sun. We got very close to them for our photographs and waited a while for them to move, they did, they moved even closer, I’m glad Maggie was on that side today as they lay in the shade created by the 4WD. After a few minutes they walked off ignoring us utterly, after all they are the king of the animals, the top of the food chain and looked so much bigger than zoo lions!

We drove on still chatting excitedly between ourselves. Eventually we arrived at the Khwai Game Reserve Gate. We walked, yes walked, for a little while across a rickety old wooden road bridge into a small settlement. I bought 4 extra large cans of coke for 50 pula or £3.50 for lunch (1 Pula = 7p, 100 Thebe = 1 Pula) they were ice cold and tasted superb.
FACT: Pula means rain, Thebe means protect.
After lunch and a very long break under the supported tarpaulin tent in the shade, the time 4.30pm had come for us to venture forth once more. We drove across the dry areas of dead grey trees and through the narrow trails which ran endlessly and spaghetti like in the woods until we once more appeared near the river only to be stopped in our tracks by an immovable object, a rather stubborn large elephant. He refused to move out of the way as did his buddy who was standing beside the track. We waited, he waited. Bibi revved the engine slightly, the elephant still waited. More revving but each time longer and louder until eventually the elephant decided he’d had enough of this game, moved off with his mate and let us pass. We drove further to view other elephants cooling off in the mud and then pulled off to the side of the track into an open area where Bibi said we could get off and stretch our legs. The sun was setting from a beautiful sky so we savoured the moment in the peace and tranquility of this unspoilt place left only to nature.

We drove back to camp in the dark and were lucky enough to spot a hare on the track.
Our evening meal, followed by chatting around the campfire completed what had been a blissful day.

Day 13 – Khwai River camp to Xakanaxa Camp (Moremi Game Reserve)

Another early start, we rose at 5.45am and after a light breakfast and cup of tea whilst Obi and Creature broke camp we were off on an early morning game drive which would develop into the trip to our next camp destination Xakanaxa.
On the way Bibi began tracking Lions. It wasn’t long before we were stopped aside 2 lionesses resting in the early morning sunshine. Off again and this time we drove up close and personal to 3 male lions on our side of the river. All the other 4x4s were on the wrong side of the river getting a much more distant view, how lucky were we?
Now began a long drive, not in distance but in time. This was due to the very poor tracks/trails that we had to use, no other choices were available. We drove to the Gate to have tea and biscuits, making sure that nothing was shared with the monkeys that hung around, then out of the Game Reserve to collect some food from a village before re-entering Moremi and driving slowly but steadily towards our overnight camp. I found this drive rather arduous but it did eventually end. Our new campsite was much more open than our previous ones being surrounded this time by grassland and trees.

Lunch was quickly served, macaroni cheese, and was gratefully received.
Once again we sat in the shade of the tarpaulin and relaxed away the extremely dry and hot afternoon, at least 37C, until 4.30pm which had now become our routine time for an afternoon/early evening game drive. It wasn’t long before we came across a water hole busy with birds numerous varieties including Spoonbills, Egyptian Geese, Marabou Storks, Red Billed Teal, Yellow Billed Stork, Spur Winged Geese, Sacred Ibis, White Faced Ducks, Black Winged Stilts – all this and yet surprisingly the waterhole was a such a small one.

After an hour and a bit we came across another 2 or 3 Land Cruisers huddled around a clump of brush. When we joined them we immediately saw what all the fuss was about, 2 leopards, a mother and cub were laying in the shade – beautiful. They became fidgety after a while and soon left this area and moved off across the grassland. We followed but at a safe distance, eventually they disappeared into another thicket.
We drove on and experienced a wide range of habitats and their associated wildlife.

As the sun began to set we once again had the opportunity to stretch our legs. The sunset was amazing, blues through to oranges providing the backdrop with trees silhouetted against it – awesome.

We drove back to camp and had our meal sitting beneath the stars which twinkled brightly in a wall to wall black sky whilst a crescent moon shone down upon us.
We eventually retired to our tent for the night as a Hyena cried out nearby.

Day 14 – in Xakanaxa Camp

The Hyena paid a call in the night and ate some scraps of food leftover from last night’s dinner. We awoke early today as the night was pretty cold due to no cloud cover. A quick breakfast watching a troop of baboons walk by close to camp and we were off for a morning game ride. Soon after leaving camp we came upon a group of wild dogs lazing in the shade.

It wasn’t long before Bibi was again tracking a lion and sure enough we, as well as a number of other vehicles came across a male lion sleeping in the shade. He didn’t take a blind bit of notice of us and so after only a short stop we moved on.
Next we spotted a dry water hole in the distance. Beside it was a large tree upon which sat no less than 7 African Fish Eagles, however, when we looked closer the whole area seemed to be alive with them calling from on high.

They were even in the water hole alongside several Marabou Storks eating some unidentifiable lumps of meat.

We drove further using what may have been the worst trails ever! We crossed water using extremely rickety bridges parts of which were distinctly un-bridge like and below the surface of the water and dodged numerous thorny branches as we passed by.

 

We came across brilliant blue lakes with Hippos and water birds.

A little further and we stopped beside a lorry stuck in deep sand its occupants attempting to dig it out, the only assistance we could offer was words of sympathy, fairly useless I’m afraid.
After about 4 hours we returned to camp for brunch which was excellent.
Off again after the heat of the day which always seemed to be at its worst between 1.30pm-3.30pm.
We drove for quite a while when unfortunately we had our one and only puncture of the trip. Bibi sprang into mechanic mode and soon had it sorted. We got back aboard and without seeing very much except for a herd of camera shy Wildebeest

and our first Hoopoe of the trip. Then, just about half an hour before sunset, we spotted a male leopard at the base of a tree. We stopped, engine off rolling silently to a halt so as not to startle the resting leopard, we were the only car in the area. No sooner had we done so when the leopard stood up and quickly climbed the tree ending up in the crook of a branch sitting comfortably in the last of the evening sun whilst surveying the savanna below and around him. It was a magical moment, the air was still, it was quiet and nothing seemed to exist other than the natural world at its rawest.

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After a good while we drove further on and stopped to watch the sun set below the distant horizon playing colours upon the clouds above.

A little further down the track we came across a group of Banded Mongoose going about their business.

How on earth does Bibi knows where he’s going?
We drove back to the campsite which we saw glowing red of the camp fire in the undergrowth not far from us and had our last camp dinner together. The evening finished with the usual chat around the fire whilst Hyenas called in the distance. Or was it a Hyena?

Day 15 – Xakanaxa to Maun
A Lion paid a rather noisy call and walked through our campsite last night!
Anyhow, it was light by 5.15am and we were soon up and having breakfast while the boys broke camp. We stood and watched Zebra and Impala as they walked past and then photographed some parrots eating on the ground nearby whilst two hornbills carefully pecked up ants carrying ant eggs across an old piece of rotten log. The trailer was loaded for our return to Maun and we said our goodbyes and thanks to Obi and Creature giving them a tip of 70$US each for their hard work.
Little did we know that today’s brief game drive towards the gate would be so special. We saw Ground Hornbills up close, a Cardinal Woodpecker and a great selection of the usual but this time it seemed even more special.

The drive to The Sedia Riverside Hotel was just as Bibi had explained, rough track followed by the dreaded very rough and potholed/rutted gravel road and a pleasant if rather short bit of Tarmac to finish off with.
Just before arriving at the hotel we stopped and bought 2 hand made Woven baskets from the only craft shop visited during our holiday. This is something that Botswana really hasn’t yet got sorted. The potential for selling traditional arts and crafts is something that needs to be introduced and developed and could bring in a lot of money for local people, oh well ‘c’est la vie.’
The hotel was really welcomed by all of us weary and dirty travellers and to our great surprise Maggie and I were lucky enough to be given a chalet to stay in, it was superb. It had a kitchen diner, lounge, downstairs and upstairs bedrooms and balcony, luxury, sheer luxury. Obviously the shower was kept very busy for quite a while. We reorganised our kit, charged our electrics and relaxed later at the hotel bar with 2 ginger beers twice.

After a lazy afternoon we mosied over to the bar for a cold beer and then sat down at our table for dinner. Tonight we opted for the buffet (140 pula) and had a really good choice: beetroot salad, vegetable lasagne, rice, vegetables and potato ‘wages’ rather than wedges. There was also some fish but I decided against it after some closer inspection, Maggie was more fish adventurous although did regret this somewhat.
We chatted until our normal bedtime of 9pm and the said our good nights.
Ahhhhh, a real bed and a/c, couldn’t ask for more.

Day 16 – The long journey home

Although it was a lovely bed, so wide, my sleep was nowhere near as sound as when I was in camp, I had a fitful night.
Breakfast for us was late today at 7.45am watching the birds swallow whole pieces of peach from the bird table.
We tidied the last of our packing and whilst Mags read I went for a walk along the riverside which was nothing to write home about; just some cows and donkeys and a few birds.
When I walked back to the hotel there was yet another wedding reception taking place; there was one upon our arrival yesterday. They seem to be very brightly coloured affairs with the older guests dressed in more traditional costume with coloured headscarves on and shawls around their shoulders, all very pleasant to see. Bibi appeared round about 11.30am and by 12 noon we were on the road again. It was only a 10 minute ride to Maun airport where after all the formalities and saying our farewell to Bibi we sat and waited to for our plane.

Without a doubt, 2421 of some of the best kilometres ever travelled!

The flight from Maun to Jo’burg was a little late taking off but was just a quick hop really, 1h 50min.

It was very busy in Jo’burg airport but because we had managed to book our baggage all the way through to Heathrow this time it meant that we could easily check in for the final flight home. We made a few last purchases and made our way to the gate. Our final flight of the holiday saw us sat in the middle row of 4 seats with a empty one beside Maggie – luxury. The 10.75h flight was a good one if a little bumpy in places.

Upon our arrival at Heathrow things could not have been easier due in part to it being an early Sunday morning. Sophie met us and we were soon home in Bexleyheath doing the washing.

Until the next time then………………………….

ANIMALS:

BIRDS: